Adding a Touch of Whimsy with Mustache X's & O's Table Runner
- dognut160
- Apr 1
- 5 min read
Last year I entered my local fair with a few projects. This year I wanted to enter a few more, with one self-imposed rule.
"I can't buy the materials for the projects; I must use my stash."
So on the list of things to enter into the fair was a Christmas table runner. After heading to the bin of Christmas fabric, I found these mustache Christmas trees I purchased a few years ago.
Then, looking through my Pinterest board of quilt ideas, I found these X's & O's.
Now, the original pattern was for a full-size quilt and used different-sized blocks and layout. This means I have to create my own block pattern to fit with my project.
Supplies
Couple of notes about supplies.
since I am using my stash, I don't have exact amounts of fabric. So if you choose to make this project and buy fabric, please understand I estimated. So that could be too much, or too little
Some of the links provided are Affiliate links. Which means I make a tiny commission off anything you purchase. You are not required to purchase anything, I provide them for those who can't get cant get certain things, and for those who need a visual aid when at store
Fabric - 1/2 yard-1yard of each -X's O's and background fabric - Should be 100% quilting cotton
Fabric - Backing 1 yard, can be one piece, or pieced together
Thread - Both to sew the pieces and Quilt the top after
Batting - for the inside of the piece, can be scraps from other projects
Other supplies if you are new to sewing
Pattern
So, knowing I wanted my table runner to be 12" wide, I figured that each X & O needed to be 6".
Now, each X & O is made of 4 pieces, which means each piece is going to be 3". Plus, add 1/4" onto each side, and you get 3.5" blocks.
Then background fabric is sewn onto the corners. So after drawing a few different triangles, I settled on 2" squares.
So I cut the green and red fabric into 3.5" strips first, then cut the strips into 3.5" squares.
I did the same with the black fabric, except into 2" strips and then 2" squares.
Note: I cut a couple strips of the red & green fabric at a time, since I was not sure how many blocks I wanted to make.
Sewing
Start by sewing the black squares on the diagonal to the opposite corners of each red and green square.
If you need to use a heat-erase pen to make the line you need to sew, go ahead.
I will say that by the end of a few blocks, you may not need to use the heat-erase pen to mark each block.
After sewing each black square on your corners, it's time to trim the edges of the seam. You can do this with pinking shears, or for a straight cut, use your rotary cutter. You want to have a 1/4" seam allowance when you trim.
When you iron the pieces, I ironed my edges towards the dark side, so there is no chance of seeing them after.
Now that you have some squares with your opposite corners, you can start sewing the X's & O's together.
I found the easiest method of knowing what to sew together is to lay the block out as it would be once finished. Then I can sew the upper two pieces together, and the lower two pieces together.
When ironing, I would iron the upper to one side (right), then the lower to the opposite side (left).
This helps in matching the seams in the next step.
After ironing, it's time to sew the Upper & Lowers together. It's best to match the center of the blocks and secure that with a pin. The edges can be trimmed, but the center being way off will be very noticeable.
When ironing these, I ironed the green seam allowance up and the red seam allowance down. This helps again with aligning the squares together in the next step.
Sewing Together
Now we have the blocks of X's & O's. We can sew them together and make the top of the table runner.
I find it easier, just like putting the blocks together. So, I layout how I want the top to look and sew it together from there. This layout was fairly easy, as it was always a green X next to a red O.
So I started by sewing the two blocks together, then ironing them.
Next would be taking two of the pairs and sewing them together.
From there, it's just adding the pair of blocks to the ever-growing strip of X's & O's until you run out of fabric or you are happy with the length of the runner.
Finishing
Now that we have the table runner completed, we need to make the quilt sandwich.
Which is the top layer we just made, then batting, and finally the backing fabric.
You need extra batting and backing fabric to overhang the edges of the table runner.
I happened to have more of the red mustache fabric, so I used that fabric as my back.
There are a few methods for quilting any project.
However, for this one, I decided to use some temporary fabric adhesive to hold my quilt sandwich layers together and edge stitch around the X's and O's.
You can be simple, with some stitching in the seams (called stitch in the ditch), or let your imagination go wild with something else.
Whatever you choose to do, it's going to be amazing.
Once you are done with the quilting, you will do a final trimming, where you cut off the excess batting and backing. Also, straighten the edges of the table runner. Even the most experienced person will have edges that get a little off here and there. With a project like a table runner, having your long straight edges be unstraight will be noticeable.
Next up is binding the edges, which involves carefully encasing the raw edges of the project to prevent fraying and to provide a clean, professional appearance.
There are few methods of doing this, so if you have your preferred method go head and so that.
If you have never done binding before.
You need 1.5" strip of fabric, long enough to cover the edge of the project. You are going to cut your fabric into strips, and then sew the strips together, to achieve the length needed.
The easiest way to prepare your binding
Iron the strip of in half, wrong sides togehter.
Iron each edge of the fabric , wrong sides together, so the edge of fabric is on the center fold. (In total there is 3 folds in fabric.)
Clip or Pin the binding to edge of your project. Sew the edge of the project is on the centerfold, with one side of the binding folded on the top of project, and the other side of the back.
Leave about 6-10" from the start & end of binding
Sew along the edge of the binding. So that your stitch goes through both sides of binding.
To finish the binding, mark where the seam goes, and sew the two sides together. (start & end pieces)
Stitch the rest closed
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